GSM and why fabric weight matters

GSM stands for grams per square meter, and it's the standard way fabric weight is measured. Higher GSM means a heavier, denser fabric; lower GSM means lighter and more drapey.

Streetwear hoodies commonly run in the 300–450+ GSM range, which gives the heavier, structured feel associated with the category. Lighter hoodies, closer to 240–280 GSM, feel closer to a sweatshirt and suit warmer climates or more casual positioning.

Neither is objectively better — it depends on how the piece is meant to feel in hand and what climate it's likely to be worn in.

It's worth noting that GSM alone doesn't fully describe how a fabric performs — two fabrics at the same GSM can differ in stretch, pilling resistance, and wash shrinkage depending on the yarn and knit structure. GSM is a useful starting reference point, not a complete spec on its own.

Fleece types: French terry vs brushed fleece

French terry has looped, uncut yarn on the inside face. It's lighter, breathes better, and gives a smoother, less bulky drape — a common choice for warmer-weather or more lifestyle-oriented hoodies.

Brushed fleece (sometimes called fleece-back) has the inside loops brushed into a soft, fuzzy nap. It's warmer, has more visual bulk, and is the more common choice for heavyweight streetwear hoodies.

The two aren't interchangeable at the same GSM — a brushed fleece and a French terry at the same weight will still feel and drape differently, so it's worth specifying which one you mean, not just a GSM number.

Fit blocks explained

Regular fit follows a standard, close-to-body silhouette. Boxy fit has a squared-off body with less taper at the waist, common in streetwear. Oversized fit goes further, with intentionally dropped shoulders and extra room throughout. Cropped fit shortens the body length while keeping other proportions similar to the base block.

Fit is a pattern decision, independent of fabric — the same fleece can be cut into any of these blocks, so specify fit and fabric separately when briefing a manufacturer rather than assuming one implies the other.

It's worth sending a reference garment or clear photos alongside your fit description whenever possible. Terms like "oversized" mean different things to different people and brands, and a shared visual reference removes most of that ambiguity before the first sample is even cut.

Construction details that affect quality

Shoulder construction: set-in shoulders sit at the natural shoulder line; drop-shoulder construction extends the seam down the arm, common in oversized and boxy fits.

Ribbing: cuff and hem ribbing quality affects both fit retention and how the hoodie ages — thin or low-quality ribbing loses shape faster after washing.

Pocket style: a kangaroo pocket (single pouch) is standard; split pockets (two separate openings) are a common upgrade some brands use as a design detail.

Drawcord and hood: hood depth and drawcord placement affect how the hood sits when down versus up — a detail easy to overlook in a flat sketch but obvious the moment a sample is in hand.

Branding placement basics

Chest branding is the most common placement, typically centered or left-chest. Back branding allows for larger graphics and is common in streetwear. Sleeve placement works for smaller logos or wordmarks.

Method matters too: embroidery suits small, durable logos; screen printing suits bold graphics at volume; puff printing adds raised texture; DTG/DTF handles detailed or full-color artwork. See our full breakdown on embroidery and printing methods.

Size and placement should be specified in exact measurements from a fixed reference point — such as inches down from the shoulder seam — rather than vague terms like "centered," since centering can be interpreted differently depending on whether it's measured against the body or the panel.

Getting started

Once you can describe fabric weight, fleece type, fit block, and construction specifically, a manufacturer can quote and sample far more accurately than from a reference photo alone.

See the full custom hoodie specifications, or go straight to a quote request with your fabric and fit details.